{"id":1786,"date":"2011-05-07T19:22:48","date_gmt":"2011-05-07T17:22:48","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/?p=1786"},"modified":"2018-09-26T07:00:23","modified_gmt":"2018-09-26T05:00:23","slug":"signature-style","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/en\/signature-style\/","title":{"rendered":"Signature Style"},"content":{"rendered":"<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><strong>One dress only \u2014 one that did count as a fashion statement in the history of fashion is a terrific achievement for one designer, even if pulling it off only once, Olivier Saillard insists as the curator of <\/strong><strong>\u00ab\u00a0Histoire id\u00e9ale de la mode contemporaine\u00a0\u00bb, volume II, dedicated to the 90\u2019s and 2000\u2019s,at the Arts D\u00e9coratifs in Paris, until May 8. <\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><strong><br \/>\n<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><strong><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1787\" title=\"Jean-Paul Gaultier, spring\/summer 1997, photo : Guy Marineau\" src=\"http:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/8d2127e4c9f170cb5e7a98ed4a377efa.gif\" alt=\"\" width=\"630\" height=\"971\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/8d2127e4c9f170cb5e7a98ed4a377efa.gif 630w, https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/8d2127e4c9f170cb5e7a98ed4a377efa-227x350.gif 227w, https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/8d2127e4c9f170cb5e7a98ed4a377efa-259x400.gif 259w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 709px) 85vw, (max-width: 909px) 67vw, (max-width: 984px) 61vw, (max-width: 1362px) 45vw, 600px\" \/><br \/>\n<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><strong><strong>The dresses here need attention like the books, movies or music that mean a lot in their respective fields. 150 dresses have been granted the status of fashion design icons in this ambitious attempt to write an ideal history of fashion made by \u00ab\u00a0authors \u2013 designers\u00a0\u00bb, meaning art directors with a vision of fashion, and not trend-setters only, however talented the latter ones might be. <\/strong><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"color: #808080;\">The exhibition is about experiencing what is at the core of creativity in fashion: a style. Fashion does not always become unfashionable. It does not have to be about absolutely staying tuned\u2026<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"color: #808080;\">The exhibition counts major and not so well-known designers provided that they have succeeded in cultivating a fashion statement, a full story that, according to the curator, proved to be a turning point in the fashion history of the decades.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"color: #808080;\">Fashion is sometimes made timeless with pieces like this one, below, hailed as the \u201cparrot bolero\u201d out of the collaboration between <strong><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Jean Paul Gaultier<\/span><\/strong>\u2019s creative singularity \u00a0and the disappearing \u00a0savoir-faire \u00a0in feather making by <span style=\"color: #000000;\"><strong>Nelly Saunier<\/strong><\/span>, \u00a0a master craftsman.\u00a0A fashion masterpiece.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"color: #808080;\">Unusual structures and volumes in dresses prompted <span style=\"color: #000000;\"><strong>Comme des Gar\u00e7ons style designed by<\/strong> <strong>Rei Kawakubo<\/strong><\/span> with this trio of dresses, or rather white and irregular round-shaped volumes we just want to touch and feel on our skins as the material seems so soft. We would wear these cloud-like or chewing-gum bubbles-like dresses.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"color: #808080;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-1788\" title=\"Comme des Gar\u00e7ons, spring\/summer 97\" src=\"http:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/cdg2.gif\" alt=\"\" width=\"310\" height=\"465\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/cdg2.gif 310w, https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/cdg2-233x350.gif 233w, https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/cdg2-266x400.gif 266w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 310px) 85vw, 310px\" \/><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-1790\" title=\"Comme des Gar\u00e7on, spring\/summer 97, photo : Guy Marineau\" src=\"http:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/a289b4a37bb51a8fcc16193f180bacb2.gif\" alt=\"\" width=\"309\" height=\"465\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"color: #808080;\">Look at <strong><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Vivienne Westwood<\/span><span style=\"color: #808080;\"> <span style=\"color: #000000;\">fashion spirit!<\/span><\/span><\/strong><span style=\"color: #808080;\"> <\/span>Her punk and Do It Yourself vision of fashion is originally conveyed by highly complex and superimposed cuts all nourished with humor.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"color: #808080;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1791 alignnone\" title=\"Vivienne Westwood, winter\/fall 95, photo: Guy Marineau\" src=\"http:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/2-vivianne_westwood_wf_1995_photo_guy_marineau_090.gif\" alt=\"\" width=\"310\" height=\"484\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/2-vivianne_westwood_wf_1995_photo_guy_marineau_090.gif 310w, https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/2-vivianne_westwood_wf_1995_photo_guy_marineau_090-224x350.gif 224w, https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/2-vivianne_westwood_wf_1995_photo_guy_marineau_090-256x400.gif 256w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 310px) 85vw, 310px\" \/><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-1792\" src=\"http:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/IMG_1306.gif\" alt=\"\" width=\"310\" height=\"484\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/IMG_1306.gif 310w, https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/IMG_1306-224x350.gif 224w, https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/IMG_1306-256x400.gif 256w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 310px) 85vw, 310px\" \/><br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"color: #808080;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><strong>Azzedine Ala\u00efa<\/strong><\/span>, both a great stylist and outstanding couture maker.\u00a0He masters the art of dress-making like nobody else\u2026<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"color: #808080;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1793\" title=\"Azzedine Alaia, 2003, photo: Guy Marineau\" src=\"http:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/8-alaia_cs_2003_photo_guy_marineau_060.gif\" alt=\"\" width=\"625\" height=\"963\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/8-alaia_cs_2003_photo_guy_marineau_060.gif 625w, https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/8-alaia_cs_2003_photo_guy_marineau_060-227x350.gif 227w, https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/8-alaia_cs_2003_photo_guy_marineau_060-259x400.gif 259w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 709px) 85vw, (max-width: 909px) 67vw, (max-width: 984px) 61vw, (max-width: 1362px) 45vw, 600px\" \/><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"color: #808080;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"color: #808080;\">With <strong><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><strong>E2<\/strong><\/span><\/strong>, the duo made of <strong><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><strong>Mich\u00e8le and\u00a0Olivier Chatenet<\/strong><\/span><\/strong>, fashion design stems from vintage dresses they found and update.\u00a0 Their idea of recycling fashion has been well ahead of today\u2019s hot concern for sustainability issues.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"color: #808080;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1795\" title=\"E2, spring\/summer 10, photo : Goran Vejvoda\" src=\"http:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/24-E2-Oct-09-10.gif\" alt=\"\" width=\"625\" height=\"671\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/24-E2-Oct-09-10.gif 625w, https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/24-E2-Oct-09-10-250x268.gif 250w, https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/24-E2-Oct-09-10-372x400.gif 372w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 709px) 85vw, (max-width: 909px) 67vw, (max-width: 984px) 61vw, (max-width: 1362px) 45vw, 600px\" \/><br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"color: #808080;\"><strong><strong><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Christian Lacroix<\/span><\/strong> <\/strong>who also gave their chances to a lot of craftsmen to design for haute couture shows with jewelry, embroidery and other savoir-faire he differently revisited and used.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"color: #808080;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1796\" title=\"Christian Lacroix, haute couture fall\/winter 2003, photo: Guy Marineau\" src=\"http:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/35201c4253140ade78e97f475e717115.gif\" alt=\"\" width=\"625\" height=\"960\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/35201c4253140ade78e97f475e717115.gif 625w, https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/35201c4253140ade78e97f475e717115-227x350.gif 227w, https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/35201c4253140ade78e97f475e717115-260x400.gif 260w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 709px) 85vw, (max-width: 909px) 67vw, (max-width: 984px) 61vw, (max-width: 1362px) 45vw, 600px\" \/><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"color: #808080;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"color: #808080;\"><strong><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><strong>Martin Margiela<\/strong><\/span><\/strong>, the designer who deals with concepts. An unusual personality craving for anonymity for himself and temperance in branding his company image in the glittering world of fashion. His \u00ab\u00a0craftsmen-made collection\u00a0\u00bb\u00a0was paying homage to materials by injecting humor in their design.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"color: #808080;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1797\" title=\"Martin Margiela, spring summer 97, photo : Ronald Stoops\" src=\"http:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/19-Margiela-tailoring12-PE1997-cRonald-Stoops.gif\" alt=\"\" width=\"625\" height=\"927\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/19-Margiela-tailoring12-PE1997-cRonald-Stoops.gif 625w, https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/19-Margiela-tailoring12-PE1997-cRonald-Stoops-235x350.gif 235w, https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/19-Margiela-tailoring12-PE1997-cRonald-Stoops-269x400.gif 269w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 709px) 85vw, (max-width: 909px) 67vw, (max-width: 984px) 61vw, (max-width: 1362px) 45vw, 600px\" \/><br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"color: #808080;\">From my talk with Olivier Saillard, I note his regrets that <strong><span style=\"color: #000000;\">fashion professionals \u00a0are neither paying enough attention to what is going in sportwear nor in streetwear, although this is where great creativity in fashion is taking place, according to the fashion historian. <\/span><\/strong><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><span style=\"color: #808080;\">He quotes Helmut Lang\u00a0 who did get interested in sport and streetwear<\/span><\/span>, and whose pieces have been selected in the exhibition\u2026 He also mentioned how fashion shows are getting too numerous\u2026.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"color: #808080;\"><strong><span style=\"color: #000000;\">What about know-how and craftsmanship?\u00a0 It is not only about haute couture\u00a0 brands.<\/span> <\/strong>\u00ab\u00a0Look at the Vivienne Westwood pieces, he says, they are very well designed, sometimes even better designed than haute couture pieces. \u201cRegarding craftsmanship, why bothering hand embroidering for hours when it can be done by machines?\u201d, he asked.\u00a0Of course, using technology is not to be banned. Let\u2019s keep in mind though embroidering with sequins \u2013 very used for haute couture design <\/span>\u2013<span style=\"color: #808080;\"> is not made possible with machines\u2026<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"color: #808080;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><strong>Yves Saint Laurent<\/strong><\/span> used to say he was designing clothing to be closely looked at and touched. What a pity the fashion pieces are separated from us by glass! \u00a0We are left with our eyes and mostly time to closely look at the pieces which were once part of a catwalk. It\u2019s well worth taking time understanding the work done with the pieces being exhibited for once.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #888888;\">Later, <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #808080;\">by St\u00e9phanie Bui<\/span><\/p>\n<address><a href=\"mailto:stephanie@thedailycouture.com\"><em>stephanie@thedailycouture.com<\/em><\/a><\/address>\n<p><em><br \/>\n<\/em><\/p>\n<p><strong>NOTES : <\/strong><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr\/english-439\/\">The exhibition at the Mus\u00e9e des Arts D\u00e9coratifs website<\/a><\/p>\n<p><a title=\"Un article sur la travail de Nelly Saunier, en anglais\" href=\"http:\/\/the-polyglot.blogspot.com\/2011\/01\/wondrous-world-of-nelly-saunier.html\"><br \/>\n<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>One dress only \u2014 one that did count as a fashion statement in the history of fashion is a terrific achievement for one designer, even if pulling it off only once, Olivier Saillard insists as the curator of \u00ab\u00a0Histoire id\u00e9ale de la mode contemporaine\u00a0\u00bb, volume II, dedicated to the 90\u2019s and 2000\u2019s,at the Arts D\u00e9coratifs &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/en\/signature-style\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading<span class=\"screen-reader-text\"> &#8220;Signature Style&#8221;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[277],"tags":[79,63],"class_list":["post-1786","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uncategorized","tag-haute-couture","tag-stephanie-bui"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - 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