{"id":9556,"date":"2014-07-15T12:08:20","date_gmt":"2014-07-15T10:08:20","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/?p=9556"},"modified":"2018-09-26T07:00:40","modified_gmt":"2018-09-26T05:00:40","slug":"the-other-couture-show","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/en\/the-other-couture-show\/","title":{"rendered":"The Other Couture Show"},"content":{"rendered":"

\u2500 Paris, July 2014, Haute Couture Week. St\u00e9phane Rolland Haute Couture Autumn Winter Hiver 2014 \u2013 2015,\u00a0 Cinema Elys\u00e9es Biarritz.<\/p>\n

To which extent can a designer express his creativity within the media coverage of fashion?<\/strong><\/span><\/h1>\n

<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u201cAt one point I felt I was acting like a robot, I found myself of needing to go and see something else; I needed to create fashion with more freedom.\u00a0 As a designer, the creative process needs to be expressed differently, \u201d <\/em>St\u00e9phane Rolland confided at the end of his Haute Couture Autumn Winter 2014-2015 presentation.\u00a0 The designer didn\u2019t want to proceed as usual and presented his collection as a film and the show as a premiere.<\/p>\n

\"St\u00e9phane<\/a><\/p>\n

The designer who is part of the official Paris Haute Couture week calendar pinpoints one inherent clear-eyed question about the well-oiled fashion system:\u00a0 to which extent one designer\u2019s quest for creativity can be preserved in the business of fashion? \u00a0For some like Anne Val\u00e9rie Hash recently, it meant stepping back for a while from the fashion scene, putting her eponymous brand on standby, before coming back with her own vision of making fashion. For St\u00e9phane Rolland, altering short film and runway show is his answer. \u201cIt\u2019s been a long time since I wanted to associate fashion with film in order to present my vision of fashion with more freedom. Mostly, this is about growing up by meeting many people, it\u2019s wonderful, I have the impression of learning everyday again like a kid, he rejoiced, whereas I had the feeling I was lagging within the usual expected creative process in fashion, \u00a0I now have other creative impulses.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n<\/col>\n<\/colgroup>\n\n\n
<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

Encouraging a commercial venture for his short film was definitively not St\u00e9phane Rolland\u2019s objective who rather stressed an aesthetic statement. Making the fashion show sitting hierarchy upside down and forget about the so expected runaway couture show would be a courageous move for any couture house.<\/p>\n

\"St\u00e9phane<\/a>\"St\u00e9phane<\/a> <\/em><\/p>\n

In a way, the designer is breaking fashion codes by making a film and still presentation rather than opting for the runaway show. However it seems that his decision rather stemmed from a question of survival for him in order to maintain his creativity, rather than any \u201cantifashion\u201d stance to make the audience question about the current fashion system. \u00a0The designer rather chose to preserve the experience of Haute Couture as a glamorous feat and heralded his fresh way of looking at creativity in fashion.<\/p>\n

\"St\u00e9phane<\/a><\/p>\n

A short film as a creative act, not as a sales catalogue<\/span><\/h1>\n

<\/strong><\/p>\n

For his first short film,\u201cL\u2019Echapp\u00e9e\u201d, he made with promising director Diane Sagnier, St\u00e9phane Rolland absolutely wanted Nieves \u00c1lvarez <\/em>as the Femme Fatale<\/em> whose eyes would flash with captivating beauty.\u00a0 It was a visually well-crafted film with a lot of blurry visions capturing\u00a0 a mischievous\u00a0 game of hide-and-seek between both protagonists. Nieves \u00c1lvarez and Jalil Lespert were playing opposite to each other. <\/em>Of more importance to me though, I was expecting more details on what couture is about as well, meaning master craftsmanship. I wish the film would have blown us away with more close-ups on textures, feathers and details not seen otherwise.<\/p>\n

What rather got my interest was how sincere the designer was in his approach: he precluded himself from turning his short film into a sales catalogue displaying his twenty haute couture dresses. Only ten of them were selected. The dresses are to support a message. For St\u00e9phane Rolland, both the woman and the dresses are put in the limelight in a way that only a film can do. I guess this is all the more relevant in times of endless mobile shooting by non-professional photographers. We are our own best advocates, as the saying goes. Here you can watch the film.<\/a><\/p>\n

\"St\u00e9phane<\/a><\/p>\n

Being blown away with master craftsmanship by meeting with artisans and stylists.<\/strong><\/span><\/h1>\n

<\/strong><\/p>\n

Following the short film, the entire audience was invited to go and observe each of the twenty dresses with more detail. I felt that the icing on the cake was the ability given to all of us to discover the master craftsmanship that had been needed for each dress\u00a0 and meet with St\u00e9phane Rolland\u2019s whole team : from his assistants to the artisans themselves! This was quite a daring option to go. St\u00e9phane Rolland admitted he had no idea whatsoever of how the fashion audience would be reacting, while stressing his belief in being sincere and having people enjoy a sincere choice.<\/p>\n

\u00ab\u00a0When hours have been spent on dresses that one can see only three seconds, that the cameraman finally did not catch the detail that you care for or that the model had such a gesture that did not enable the cameraman to reveal the piece as you would have liked, well,<\/em> the designer confessed, I ended up kicking myself for keeping the work not recognized as it should have\u201d. <\/em><\/p>\n

What the still presentation loses in glamor, it tops in the authentic experience it enables: we go back to the essence of Haute Couture as pure master craftsmanship rather than any stylistic exercise. That is to say it was a great experience for the Daily Couture!<\/p>\n

In the media coverage of fashion as it is, meaning focusing on the silhouette leaving finishings unseen, how to distinct fast fashion from slow made fashion? \u00a0On the magazines or photo ads, the \u201cfashion product\u201d is always made desirable whatever it is: couture or fashion fashion. All in all, we have ended up being extra sensitive to style and silhouettes in our image obsessed culture. We lost connexion with the quality of fabrics and the art of textile design.<\/p>\n

\"St\u00e9phane<\/a><\/p>\n

Knowing about fabrics, textile and color design is needed to understand what master craftsmanship is about. <\/strong><\/span><\/h1>\n

\n

Many master craftsmen working for haute couture are used to mentioning to me how the work of haute couture and master craftsmanship has become unknown nowadays. They regret the lost of good taste, refinement that requires a well-trained eye to materials, fabrics or colors among the public, the clients and even professionals.<\/p>\n

It doesn\u2019t mean being yearning for good old days, but being able to still recognize the quality of materials and manufacturing processes implied when quality \u2014 and not only style \u2014 is expected to be met by luxury ready wear or couture brands. Haven\u2019t you ever noticed those overhanging threads from clothes exhibited in window displays? One master embroiderer for haute couture was showing me one portrait of an actress published in a well-known fashion magazine : her shirt’s sewing wasn’t\u00a0done right ; the bad sewing job could be closely observed at on this one photo. The master embroiderer was pretty much irritated indeed at this being made possible nowadays. And yet, who else other than an artisan or seamstress can notice the bad sewing job? \u00a0No wonder that many know-hows are disappearing.\u00a0 Quality has become recognized by artisans only.\u00a0 Knowledge about quality is disappearing among clients and all of us indeed. In our image obsessed culture, the press, which could help raising awareness about how fashion is being made, prefers cultivating expertise in stylistic fashion postures.<\/p>\n

Even though manufacturing process of haute couture remains taboo, there could be some raising awareness about it. I guess we\u2019ll get more communication about it by the fashion couture houses themselves as transparency has become key among in management issues for big industrial groups. In light of this context, St\u00e9phane Rolland did echo to the need to have us more aware of the manufacturing process of haute couture.<\/p>\n

With St\u00e9phane Rolland\u2019s presentation, the fashion audience was given the chance to dream about haute couture with the film and, with the presentation, we could observe the haute couture dresses perfectly fitting the body, exalting the fabrics with precious detail made on them by master craftspeople as well.<\/p>\n

\"St\u00e9phane<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n

To enhance a keen eye to appreciate fabrics, textile and color design<\/strong><\/span><\/h1>\n

<\/strong><\/p>\n

Both Marie-France and Corinne, Stephane Rolland\u2019s assistants, experts in draping techniques for Haute Couture or \u201cmoulage Haute Couture\u201d at the atelier, stressed how light the collection was. \u00a0I felt it was somehow reminding of what St\u00e9phane Rolland mentioned about needing to feel freer now.\u00a0 Nature has inspired the designer rather known for his abstract and graphic lines so far. The embroidered golden metal recalls those strict lines he likes. Mostly though, references to Nature were made with flowered shaped dresses made possible by flocking techniques and by feather design on body hugging stretch fabric conveying transparency and lightness in all. The difficult part, it was stressed, was to combine both stretch and non-stretch fabrics in such a way that the tension of the whole dress would be preserved and follow the movement of the human body. Non-stretch fabrics as velvet, feather and metal embroidery needed to technically match body hugging stretch fabric! \u00a0Finishing needed special care by all artisans. \u00a0All in all, the appearing simplicity of the dresses is misleading.<\/p>\n

At the end of some of the dresses, some fantastic work was accomplished by C\u00e9line, one the stylists who also does research in textile design. \u00a0She managed to cut the already thin organza fabric in her own special way so that it would become feathers as thin as eyebrows! \u00a0\u201cThis is such a huge amount of work to do and it is so beautiful!<\/em>\u201d, both Marie-France and Corinne exclaimed. \u00a0The atelier of twenty persons was helped by external and independent haute couture ateliers renowned for their expertise in embroidery, feather and flocking design.<\/p>\n

\u201cMost importantly to note<\/em>, Marie-France and Corinne insisted, this is a team work<\/em>: once we both have finished draping the dresses, we help the artisans at the atelier since we were originally trained as seamstresses or \u201ccouturi\u00e8res\u201d <\/em>as we say in French.<\/p>\n

\"St\u00e9phane<\/a><\/p>\n

<\/strong><\/p>\n

The need to raise awareness among the fashion audience about the art of haute couture master craftsmanship <\/strong><\/span><\/h1>\n

<\/span> <\/strong><\/p>\n

Meeting the Stephane Rolland\u2019s team in such a simple and genuine atmosphere was great! I wish haute couture houses would coax the fashion audience into getting interested in master craftsmanship with more force. \u00a0The idea? \u00a0Raising awareness among the fashion professionals on the mostly left unknown art of haute couture artisans. Luxury brands have a responsibility in nurturing independent artisans working for them for they contribute to the work of their in-house ateliers renowned worldwide as well, don\u2019t they?<\/p>\n

–\u00a0 St\u00e9phanie Bui<\/em><\/a><\/p>\n

\"stephanie<\/a><\/p>\n

\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014-<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

For information about the Daily Couture\u2019s Paris fashion private tours organized all year round (except August), visit our page dedicated to our Paris custom Haute Couture and Sur Mesure tours for professionals and private individuals interested in discovering this confidential world of French fashion<\/a>, don\u2019t hesitate reading our Guest Book<\/a>. The Daily Couture\u00a0 by St\u00e9phanie Bui \u2013 info@thedailycouture.com<\/a><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u2500 Paris, July 2014, Haute Couture Week. St\u00e9phane Rolland Haute Couture Autumn Winter Hiver 2014 \u2013 2015,\u00a0 Cinema Elys\u00e9es Biarritz. To which extent can a designer express his creativity within the media coverage of fashion? \u201cAt one point I felt I was acting like a robot, I found myself of needing to go and see … Continue reading “The Other Couture Show”<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":9570,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[277],"tags":[180,163,79,231,148,63,62,202],"class_list":["post-9556","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized","tag-artisans-dart","tag-ateliers-haute-couture","tag-haute-couture","tag-haute-couture-artisan","tag-master-craftsmanship","tag-stephanie-bui","tag-the-daily-couture","tag-visit-paris-haute-couture"],"yoast_head":"\nThe Other Couture Show - The Daily Couture<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/en\/the-other-couture-show\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The Other Couture Show - The Daily Couture\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"\u2500 Paris, July 2014, Haute Couture Week. St\u00e9phane Rolland Haute Couture Autumn Winter Hiver 2014 \u2013 2015,\u00a0 Cinema Elys\u00e9es Biarritz. To which extent can a designer express his creativity within the media coverage of fashion? \u201cAt one point I felt I was acting like a robot, I found myself of needing to go and see … Continue reading "The Other Couture Show"\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/en\/the-other-couture-show\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"The Daily Couture\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/TheDailyCouture\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2014-07-15T10:08:20+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2018-09-26T05:00:40+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/thedailycouture.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/stephane_rolland_hautecouture-FW20151.gif\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"315\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"315\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/gif\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"The Daily Couture\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@thedailycouture\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@thedailycouture\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"The Daily Couture\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"9 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thedailycouture.com\\\/en\\\/the-other-couture-show\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thedailycouture.com\\\/en\\\/the-other-couture-show\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"The Daily Couture\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thedailycouture.com\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/cb0e442ced5f1118e047c150e89ce069\"},\"headline\":\"The Other Couture Show\",\"datePublished\":\"2014-07-15T10:08:20+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2018-09-26T05:00:40+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thedailycouture.com\\\/en\\\/the-other-couture-show\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":1788,\"commentCount\":1,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thedailycouture.com\\\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thedailycouture.com\\\/en\\\/the-other-couture-show\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thedailycouture.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2014\\\/07\\\/stephane_rolland_hautecouture-FW20151.gif\",\"keywords\":[\"artisans d'art\",\"ateliers haute couture\",\"haute couture\",\"haute couture artisan\",\"master craftsmanship\",\"st\u00e9phanie bui\",\"the daily couture\",\"visit paris haute couture\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/thedailycouture.com\\\/en\\\/the-other-couture-show\\\/#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thedailycouture.com\\\/en\\\/the-other-couture-show\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thedailycouture.com\\\/en\\\/the-other-couture-show\\\/\",\"name\":\"The Other Couture Show - 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